Buddhism in Odisha

Odisha has not been on the radar of many travellers, especially solo travellers, much less solo female travellers. My last trip to Odisha made it a tad incredible.

About two years ago, right before the pandemic struck and pretty much ruined my each ensuing travel plan, I took a trip to Odisha, completely unaware of the brutal fact that this would be a memory to hold on to for a long time.

The trip was exceptional for many reasons, a prominent one of which was the laid-back travelling experience that the State had to offer whether you are visiting a famous Hindu temple that hosts one of the biggest Rath Yatras in the world or is home to the richest cultural heritage and architectural marvels, or wrapping your head around its starkly contrasting beaches. There was perhaps just one thing left that perfects the serendipity that comes with the State and that was its touch with Buddhism.

Buddhism in Odisha had its root in as early as the 2nd century B.C.; the discovery was, however, made most prominently in the late 1900s during excavation expeditions. It soon gained popularity and excavations became commonplace which led to the discovery and a further designation of the major excavation sites as the Diamond Triangle.

Ratnagiri

The first monastery of Ratnagiri is known to have the finest carved stone structures. The complex is home to three monasteries in total, spread over a small area with vestiges of Buddhism in Odisha.

The excavation site of Ratnagiri is home to a museum as well. A nominal entry fee is charged for entry to both i.e. for the museum and for the complex, as a whole.

Udayagiri

About 13 Kms from Ratnagiri lies another complex where excavations led to yet another discovery of Buddhism in Odisha – the Udayagiri Buddist Complex.

The complex houses the main stupa, a collection of smaller stupas scattered towards a foothill, and an even smaller stepwell beside a temple at the entrance.

The stupa houses four forms of sculpture on all of the four sides, each relic archetypal of Buddhism in Odisha during the period.

The Excavation Site 2 is located in a depression at the foothills and houses a Monastery and antiquities ranging from stupas to sculptures of Buddha, among other findings.

Last but not the least, the complex harbours a small temple, encasing a stepwell with inscriptions on its sidewalls.

Lalitgiri

Lalitgiri Buddhist Excavation site uncovered one of the oldest remnants of Buddhism in Odisha; the first relics were unearthed in the early 1900s. The site evidenced the unremitting presence of Buddhism from the 2nd Century B.C. until the 13th Century A.D. The excavations disinterred a number of significant finds some of which included the Chaityagriha Stupa and a number of monasteries.

The three sites of Ratnagiri, Udayagiri, and Lalitgiri lie in the Jajpur district of Cuttack, Odisha. Jajpur is about 70 Kms away from Cuttack, while each site lies about 7-10 Kms away from one another. Together, they formed the ‘Diamond Triangle‘ and were popularized as a tourist destination. Each is home to a museum that stores the relics uncovered in the form of coins, seals, and relief panels among others. The three collectively also came to be known as ‘Pushpagiri Vihara’, that is until yet another discovery on an even obscure site was made at…

Langudi Hill

It was initially a plan to travel through all that is unknown or little-known about Odisha and that led me to travel to the tribal belt of Koraput, Simlipal National Park, and the region once dominated by the Buddhist faith. En route to Cuttack from Puri, I did not have Langudi Hill in mind; just the Diamond Triangle. However, a great driver-cum-guide and a few locals introduced this concealed treasure which is yet to find its way in many itineraries.

Langudi Hill was tricky to locate which turned out to be a boon more than a torment as the ride passed along a beautiful countryside before the site revealed itself.

The excavation site is situated atop the hill and consists of stupas etched on a rock face, ruins of a large stupa, and broken statues of Buddha.

The site is on a hilltop which makes it quite a hike, despite the picturesque scenery of the villages bounded by fields.

In a gist:-

• The excavation sites are not to be confused with the Udayagiri and Khandgiri caves in Bhubaneswar which see far more footfall than the ones mentioned here i.e. the ones in Jajpur, Cuttack.
• I visited Odisha in the month of March; Cuttack was exceptionally hot during the time. The best months to visit this part especially, would be from October to February; I’d say don’t try your luck and constrict the upper end to January.
• The sites are obscure, literally, and not just worth-a-visit but a must-visit. Don’t let the obscurity discourage your planning.
• That said, obscurity shouldn’t even be a hindrance for solo female travellers. I travelled throughout Odisha, including Jajpur, alone and found it to be perfectly safe for solo female travellers.

Odisha and Buddhism were entwined since the 2nd century B.C. and these sites are a testimony to a heritage that is lost on a vividly diverse country.